Archive for August, 2008
Posted in jewelry August 31st, 2008
There’s so much hype in today’s marketplace about quality, it has become an almost meaningless word. So rather than talk on and on about quality, it will be more instructive to talk you through the rigorous quality practices that define the kind of quality inherent in true hand crafting.
Let’s start with the design process: Aesthetics and functionality are like the two wings of a bird; without the right balance between the two, the piece won’t “fly”. We have spent the past ten years in a continuous improvement process in both of these areas. What people immediately notice about our boxes are the pleasing, soft lines. Whatever design themes you choose to highlight must be applied consistently and consciously, leaving no detail to chance. Exceptional care must always be taken to make sure that the beauty of each individual piece of wood is displayed to its utmost advantage.
It is important to apply the same level of detail to the functionality of each piece. Years of experimentation
and problem solving have yielded the most efficient and easy-to-use space use that we have seen anywhere. Design features like removable trays and customizable dividers are standard because no collection is exactly like anyone else’s. Efficient space use can and should be
beautiful, as well.
In order to show the designs properly, you must use the finest wood available in the world. This is no overstatement. We work directly with sawyers at the source of where the wood grows at its finest. Our sawyers know we are fanatics about wood quality and choose from their prime stock. Once the wood arrives in Colorado, we allow it to acclimate for 1-6 months depending on the species. By adjusting to the arid climate of the southwest, the wood naturally reaches an optimal 5% moisture content without structural tensions. Needless to say, you should use only solid wood construction that is color matched naturally. That way, you don’t have to use the numerous dyes or pigments that most manufacturers use to cover up inconsistencies or flaws in the wood. The other material required for true quality is genuine rayon velvet made by A. Wimpfheimer & Bro., the finest manufacturer of velvet for jewelry boxes in the country.
It’s not enough to have extraordinary designs and materials - the approach to craftsmanship is where the magic really takes shape. You must care more about expressing the lost art of craft and sharing the beauty that results than about being the biggest or best known jewelry box maker. And how the wood feels when it is touched and about how many generations of use a box can provide. So we go to exceptional lengths in the crafting process and take care with things like: selecting each piece of wood for the box from the same piece of wood, so the wood “wraps” around each corner, and constructing each wooden box with floating panels so the wood can move as needed, depending on the climate you live, and reinforcing joints in several ways, providing a redundancy that mass manufacturers don’t have time to do, sanding each piece up to 20 separate times, and using a finish that’s durable, non-toxic to the environment, and maintenance-free. There’s a lot more but, hopefully, this helps you understand why our jewelry boxes have been displayed in museums and described as “heirlooms”.
In a book featuring our work, Objects for Use: Handmade by Design, Holly Hotchner, American Craft Museum Director, writes: “Art, craft, and design are ultimately about relationships established between the makers of things and the individuals who become the possessors, consumers, and users of those things. Through these objects we are invited into the artistic, emotional, and spiritual worlds of the creator; by selecting and using these objects, we complete a creative process begun by the maker. Objects designed and made for use underline humanistic values honored and shared by makers and consumers, values that give meaning and purpose to our lives at many levels.” We invite you to share in our artistic, emotional, and spiritual world through the use of extraordinarily high quality containers for your most treasured objects.
Russell Pool has been perfecting the art of quality wooden box creation for over two decades. Each piece he creates reflects his passion for quality and his love for the spiritual qualities of balance, beauty, and getting things “naturally right.” To learn more about his work visit Russell Pool Fine Woodworking.
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Posted in jewelry August 30th, 2008
Diamonds
Gem Body Color.
Color is one of the most important factors to consider when selecting a diamond because one of the first things most people notice is whether or not the diamond is white, or, more accurately, colorless. It is also one of the most significant factors affecting value.
Color refer to the natural body color of a diamond. The finest and most expensive, “white” diamonds are absolutely colorless. Most diamonds show some trace of yellowish or brownish tint, but diamonds also occur in every color of rainbow. Natural colored diamonds are called “fancy” diamonds.
How to look at a diamond to evaluate color?
In white diamonds, color differences from one grade to the next can be very subtle, and a difference of several grades is difficult to see when a diamond is mounted. Keep in mind that it is impossible to accurately grade color in a mounted diamond. When looking at an un-mounted stone, however, even an amateur can learn to see color differences if the stone is viewed properly.
Because of diamond’s high brilliance and dispersion, the color grade can not be accurately determined by looking at the stone from the top, or face-up, position. It is best to observe color by examining the stone through the pavilion with the table down. Use a flat white surface such as a white business card, or a grading trough, which can be be purchased from a jewelry supplier or the Gemological Institute of America, GIA. Next, view the stone with the pavilion side down and the culet pointing toward you.
What is diamond body color?
When we discuss diamond body color we are referring too much yellow or brown tint can be seen in a white (colorless) diamond. We are not referring to rare natural colored diamonds, which are called “fancy” or “master Fancy” in the trade.
Today, most colorless diamonds in the United States and in an increasing number of other countries are graded in alphabetical scale beginning with the letter D, which designates the finest, rarest, most absolutely colorless diamond, and continuing down through the entire alphabet to the letter Z. Each letter after D indicates increasing amounts of yellowish (or brownish) tint to the body color. It’s easy to understand the color grade, if you just remember: the closer the letter is to D the Whiter the diamond; the closer the letter to is to Z, the more yellow (or more brown) the diamond.
This grading system, with its letter designations, is part of a diamond grading system introduced by the Gemological Institute of America, often referred to as GIA, and is used extensively in the diamond trade around the world. Grades E - F are exceptionally fine and diamonds in this range can be referred to as “colorless,” although technically, E and F are not colorless since they possess a very slight trace of yellow; the tint is so slight, however, that the trade agrees they may be referred to as colorless.
What color grade is most desirable?
The diamonds colors, D, E, and F can all be grouped as exceptionally fine and may be referred to as “colorless,” “exceptional white.” or “rare white” as they are often described by diamond dealers. G and H may be referred to as “fine white” or “rare white.” These grades are all considered very good. I and J colors are slightly tinted white. K and L show a tint of yellow or brown, but settings can often mask the slight tint. Grades M - Z will show progressively more and more tint of color, and will have a definite yellowish or brownish cast; diamonds with a strong yellowish tint are often referred to as cape stones in trade.
Diamond grades D - J seem to have better resale potential than grades K - Z. This does not mean that diamonds having a more tinted color (grades below J) are not beautiful or desirable. They can make lovely jewelry and, depending upon other quality factors and “overall personality,” color. Remember: color is important, but it’s only one of four factors you must learn to weigh as you judge the whole stone.
To what extent does the color grade affect value?
To an untrained eye, discerning the difference in color from D down to H in a mounted stone, without direct comparison, is almost impossible. Nevertheless, the difference in color greatly affects the value of the diamond. A one carat, flawless, excellently proportioned D color diamond might sell for a much higher price than the same stone with H color. The same stone with K color might sell for much less price. And if the stone were not flawless, or well cut, it could sell for much less.
In diamonds over one carat, the more white the stone, the more critical it becomes to know the exact color grade of its effect on value. On the other hand, as long as you know for sure what color the stone is, and are paying the right price, choosing one that is a grade or two lower than another will reduce the cost per carat, and there will be little, if any, visible difference when the stone is mounted. Therefore, for the difference in cost, you might be able to get a larger diamond, or one with a better clarity grade, depending upon what is most important to you.
What is Fluorescence?
If the diamond you are considering is accompanied by a diamond grading report, it will indicate whether or not the diamond has some degree of fluorescence. This is a property that some stones posses which causes them to appear to be different colors in different lights. A diamond that fluoresces might light whiter than it really is in certain light. This is one reason why the color of any fine diamond should always be verified by a qualified gemologist.
If a diamond fluoresces, it normally will produce a bluish, yellowish, or whitish glow when viewed in sunlight or daylight type fluorescent light ( those long tubes you see in the ceiling of many stores and office buildings). To ensure that the true body color is being graded, a professional will always test for fluorescence with a special ultraviolet lamp prior to color grading. Blue Fluorescence is more common than yellow or white. Some white diamonds that produce a blue fluorescence may actually look “blue-white” in the right light. Normally, however, you will not really notice fluorescence with the naked eye
It is also important to know whether or not a diamond fluoresces to prevent any unpleasant surprises. For example, if you buy a “fluorescent” diamond because it seems so “white” when you purchase it (resulting from exposure to fluorescent light in the jewelry store, which, except in the case of fluorescent stones, is the proper light for viewing diamond color), you might be disappointed by its yellower appearance in the evening light where the stone won’t fluoresce.
A white diamond can also fluoresce yellow, and look yellower than it really is. But remember, whatever color is produced by fluorescence, it occurs only in the daylight or fluorescent light.
Does fluorescence affect value?
Generally, the presence or absence of fluorescence has little, if any effect on value. However, if the stone has a strong yellow fluorescence it may sell for 10% to 15% less, since this will make the stone appear yellower in some lights than another stone with the same color grade.
The presences of blur fluorescence may be considered an added benefit, a little bonus, since it may make the stone appear whiter in some lights; and yet there may be no difference in cost. You must be careful, however, to look closely at stones with very strong blue fluorescence, some will have an “oily” or “murky” appearance. If the stone appears murky or oily in daylight or fluorescent light, it should sell 15% to 20% less than comparable stones without the murky cast.
If a diamond fluoresces, its true body color can be mis-graded. Knowledgeable jewelers or appraisers will always test a diamond to see whether or not it fluoresces, and to what degree, in order to color grade accurately.
What is a “Premier”?
At this point we should mention a type of fluorescent diamond that is not encountered often, but which occurs frequently enough to warrant a brief discussion. It is called a premier. This does not mean the diamond is better than others. In fact, it should sell for much less than other white diamonds.
The true color of any premier diamond will be yellowish (cape), but the yellow color is masked by strong blue florescence. As with other diamonds that fluoresces blue, the premier will appear whiter than it really is in certain light. It may actually have a bluish tint, sometimes with a greenish cast. However, a premier will always have a murky or oily appearance in daylight or fluorescent light resulting from the coupling of the yellow with blue. The murkiness detracts from its beauty and causes a reduction in value. The price of the premier varies depending on the degree of yellow and the degree of murkiness.
Do not confuse a premier diamond with one that exhibits normal blue fluorescence . Many diamonds exhibit some degree of fluorescence. Many have a very fine white body color to begin with. But most important, they differ from premier because they will not appear oily or murky in day light type light.
Some plain talk about “fancy” colored diamonds
Diamonds have been found to occur naturally in almost every color and shade, blue, red, green, yellow, lavender, pink, gunmetal blue, coffee brown, and black. The color can be intense or very pale. Some colors are rarer than others. The most common is often called “canary”, orange, and brown. Such colors as pink, light green, and lavender occur much more rarely. Deep blue, red, and green diamonds are among the rarest, and most valuable, gems on earth. Black diamonds are relatively common. Most colored diamonds found in nature tend to be pastel.
Except for very pale yellow and very pale brown varieties, which are very common and not considered “fancies” but more properly, off white, colored diamonds often sell for more than fine colorless diamonds. An extremely rare red diamond with very poor clarity that weighted less than one carat brought the highest price ever paid for a single gem, almost one million dollars per carat, at auction in 1987. A fine pink or blue diamond can bring hundreds of thousands of dollars per carat.
Fancy colored diamonds occur naturally, but fancy colors can also be produced artificially by exposing very inexpensive brownish or yellowish stones to certain types of radiation and heating techniques. Many unattractive, off white stones are changed in this manner to beautiful “fancy” colors. Yellow, blue, and green diamonds are often the result of such treatment.
with the exception of some green diamonds, a stone’s color can be tested by a qualified gemologist or gem-testing laboratory using spectroscopic examination, electro-conductivity, and ultraviolet response to determine whether color is natural or induced. Although the treated diamond may be comparable to the natural in beauty, if the color is induced, the price should be much less.
When buying any fancy colored diamond be sure to ask whether or not the color is natural, and be sure the bill of sale and any accompanying certification or appraisal specifies whether the color is natural or induced. Always verify natural color at a respected gem testing laboratory.
Special tips on the subject of color
Keep it clean of you want the color to look the best
A dirty diamond will not look white (nor will it sparkle). An accumulation of dirt, especially greasy dirt, will give a diamond a yellow cast, so if you want to see and enjoy its full beauty, keep your diamond clean.
This principle applies especially when you are looking at old jewelry for possible purchase. When considering old diamond pieces, pay particular attention to whether or not it is impacted with dirt accumulated by years of use. If it is, there is a possibility that the diamond will have a better color grade than it may appear to have at first glance. This is because the dirt may contain varying amounts of fatty deposits (from dishwashing, cosmetics, etc.), which yellow with age. When this type of dirt builds up, and is in contact with the diamond, it will also make the diamond appear more yellow.
White or Yellow gold setting
The color of the metal in the setting can affect your perception of the color of your stone, sometimes adversely and sometimes beneficially. A very white diamond should be held in a white metal such as white gold, platinum, or palladium. If you prefer yellow gold, it’s possible to have just that portion of the setting which holds the diamond itself fashioned in white metal. For example, a diamond ring can be made with a yellow gold “shank” to go around the finger, and white metal “head” to hold the diamond. An all yellow setting may make a very white diamond appear less white because the yellow color of the setting itself is reflected into the diamond.
On other hand, if the diamond you choose tends to be more yellow than you’d like, mounting it in yellow gold , with yellow surrounding the stone, may make the stone appear more white in contrast to the strong yellow of the gold.
The yellow gold environment may mask the degree of yellow in a yellow diamond, or it may give a colorless diamond an undesirable yellow tint. The setting can also affect future color grading should you ever need an updated insurance appraisal.
The article above can be used on your web site or newsletter.
When it is published, May I request that you include my name and resource box (the bio., contact and copyright information that follows the article. I would also appreciate if you could send me an e-mail of notification along with a complimentary copy of publication.
Bijan Aziz is the owner and Web Master for The Jewelry Hut.
http://www.thejewelryhut.com
The best source for fine Diamond, gemstone, and Pearl Jewelry on the Web
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Posted in jewelry shop August 29th, 2008
You’ve been given grandma’s heirloom diamond pendants. Instead of leaving them tucked away in your jewelry box, you’d really like to wear them. There is one problem though; grandma’s diamond pendants are terribly ugly.
No disrespect meant toward grandma, but you wouldn’t ever wear those things. Okay maybe the jewelry really isn’t ugly. Maybe it just needs to be repaired or it’s too small for your taste. Whatever the reason may be, it’s okay if you don’t like your grandma’s diamond pendants. You can still put your grandma’s heirlooms to good use.
Using your grandma’s jewelry you can update the style and create something totally new. A lot of people like to take the stones out of diamond pendants and use them to create a ring or necklace. Don’t feel bad about redesigning grandma’s jewelry. If it’s left in its original form what good will it be doing sitting hidden in the drawer of your jewelry box?
By using the stones for another jewelry piece grandma’s memory will be with you every time you wear it.
First you’ll want to have a qualified gemologist take a look at the diamond pendant. They will be able to tell you all about the stones that are in the jewelry. You’ll want to know about the color, clarity, cut, and carat of the stone. The gemologist will also be able to tell you about any flaws or problem areas in the diamonds as well.
After you’ve taken the stone to a gemologist you need to pick a jeweler. Be extremely careful about which jeweler you choose. You want someone that has plenty of experience and skill; an amateur could destroy those heirloom stones.
When choosing a jeweler it’s also important to look at their other work. Make sure that there are a number of his pieces that you really like.
Designing the ring comes next. You will work extremely close with the jeweler for this step in the process. You’ll be giving him your ideas, likes and dislikes. If you have a picture to help you describe what you want, bring it with you when you meet with him.
Remember to be as clear as you can about what you want. If your idea is totally different than what you’ve described to the jeweler the outcome will be a complete let down.
Drawing sketches is another way to help the jeweler see what you’re looking for. Don’t be shy either; this is going to be your new piece of jewelry. You have to make sure you’re going to absolutely love it.
So if you get diamond pendants and you’ll never wear them, create something new. Using the stones from grandma’s diamond pendants for an updated, different piece of jewelry is perfectly acceptable. Have fun designing it and wear it with pride.
When it comes to diamonds, Shayna Schnereger wants to help you make the best out of whatever you have. For more helpful tips about diamond pendants visit her at http://online-jewelry-guide.com
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Posted in jewelry August 28th, 2008
Why Amber?
Amber contains joy and happiness. It contains life-giving energy. The life that started more than 30 million years ago survived the massive moving of earth plates, masses of heavy grounds falling on them, being washed away miles away and miles deep to the ocean bed and the traces of them still stayed to amazing details inside the tree resin we now call Amber! The treasures of life forms proved its existence through this long and really earth moving experience. Amber is therefore symbolic of life-giving energy.
Amber is popular for thoughtful gift giving to the beloved ones. Amber has a meaningful message about life and survival.
What is Amber?
Commonly referred to as tree sap, however amber is anything but sap! Read below to know more.
This is how it all started millions of years agoLarge number of trees in some parts of the world began to seep its sticky and aromatic resin down their sides and onto the land while filling internal fissures, trapping debris, such as seeds, leaves, feathers and insects on the way. These seeped globes of tree resin collected life forms in the process. As geologic time progressed through the millions of years afterwards, these forests were buried under the ocean or the resin was washed out of the forest floor by large rivers and transported south towards the sea. In the course of time, the globes of resin progressively hardened into a golden gem with a warm and soft glow from within!
This process of fossilizing tree resin of ancient trees is called “natural polymerization and oxidization of original organic compounds”. In other words, amber is fossilized resin that is million of years old. Most of the world’s amber is in the range of 30-90 million years old.
Therefore contrary to common belief, Amber is not produced from tree sap, but rather from plant resin
Amber and Baltic Amber
Since the ancient times, the word amber meant only one thing - the Baltic Amber! However, the process of how amber is formed traced more amber varieties in different parts of the world. Although more than 125 types of fossil resins are known in the world, these resins are not amber but its relatives. They are mostly found in Europe and America and each of them has its own name. But the Baltic amber is uniquely known for its quality and is most sought after.
Baltic amber is fossil resin produced by pine trees, which grew in Northern Europe - from southern regions of the present-day Scandinavia and nearby regions of the bed of the Baltic Sea. The climate became warmer and conifer trees started to exude big amounts of resin. Scientists say that amber (or succinite) is a fossil pine resin from this region that has achieved a stable state through oxidation.
Our amber comes from the Palvininkai deposit in the Yantamy, Kaliningrad Province of Russia. The Palvininkai deposit contains 90% of the world’s amber. Even now 500-700 tons of this mineral per year are excavated in an open mine using modern mining equipment. Over 90% percent of all extracted amber is of poorer quality and can be used only as an ingredient in other products.
Pippinbass Jewelry
Amber Silver Jewelry
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Posted in jewelry August 27th, 2008
Moldavite is in a league of its own. It is truly a gemstone like no other. Unlike all other gemstones, it was formed from the impact of an intense meteorite shower between 15 and 20 million years ago. Moldavite is the only known “gem quality” stone of extra-terrestrial origin.
The meteorite materials were fused by the tremendous heat and pressure produced by the impact and then catapulted back into the Earth’s atmosphere. Once these meteorites began to fall back toward Earth, they began to fracture and scattered hundreds of kilometers within the Moldau River Valley, which lies north of Prague in Czechoslovakia. The friction of atmosphere against the cooling magma of the meteorites created the unique surface sculpture found on Moldavite.
Moldavite is scientifically classified as a member of the Tektite family. The term Tektite is derived from the Greek word tekto, which means “molten”. It describes a type of natural glass formed by high temperatures and pressure when meteorites impact the earth. Tektites are found on earth only within a narrow belt along the equator about 80 degrees wide.
Tektites usually have a heavily pitted surface, and at first glance appear to be black in color. However, when held up against a strong light source, golden tints and translucent areas can often be made out near the edges.
Tektites have been found in Thailand, Australia, Vietnam and the Philippines. However, Moldavite has only been found in the Moldau River Valley, Czechoslovakia. Moldavite is an extremely rare gem stone. It is prized for its clarity and unique deep green color.
Moldavite’s powerful metaphysical energy has been recognized and utilized for centuries. In the Middle Ages, Moldavite jewelry was given as gifts from royalty to royalty. Today, you can experience the amazing energies of “the stone of transformation” for yourself.
Even people not normally sensitive to the qualities of stones can feel the energy of Moldavite. Typical sensations include heat which emanates from the stone, along with a sense of pulsating, tingling energy.
Moldavite’s powerful energies can assist you in breaking through limitations and past patterns.
It can also greatly accelerate the spiritual growth and psychic awakening.
Sleeping with Moldavite is said to activate the dream state.
Wearing moldavite helps manifest positive life changes.
Moldavite is known as excellent meditation stone.
Katharina Bishop is a freelance writer. She is the owner of Wondrous Gems, a business specializing in crystals and designer jewelry. http://www.wondrousgems.com
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Posted in jewelry August 25th, 2008
When shopping for jewelry, one can see two extremes in any motif lineup: the delicate, feminine extreme, and the strong, masculine extreme. Among the “strong” extremes, wolf jewelry stands out as a common favorite — it is, after all, the symbol of virility and independence, rebellion and complete self-possession. When one wears the most common types of masculine wolf jewelry, one is virtually saying, “I’m tough; don’t mess with me.”
But nowadays, a greater diversity of designs exists for jewelry themes, even wolf jewelry. For example: the popular fantasy comic Elfquest’s artist Wendy Pini has popularized the use of delicate wolf motifs, which are smoothly curving, streamlined and sensual without compromising the impregnable visage of the real-life wolf. Pini’s wolf designs symbolize neither male nor female, but nature as a whole.
Kevin Costner made a smash hit with his appearance in the romantic period dramatic film “Dances With Wolves.” In that movie he celebrated the qualities that are as essential to humans as they are to wolves: loyalty, honor, trust and freedom. Wolves remain a symbol of all these virtues. The moon is also associated very closely with the image of the wolf, as images of wolves howling at the full moon continue to be popular in today’s culture.
Wolves are known to be solitary creatures, but as a matter of fact only a few are known to be certified “lone wolves” — that is, wolves that have decided to leave the pack and hunt on their own. Lone wolves are rather rare, but their lives burn brightly; their achievements may not be acknowledged by members of their own species, but they are certainly remembered by the world around them.
Many people who identify with wolves fancy that they are most attuned to the lone wolf: the seductive outcast who is making his or her own way into the world, regardless of what anyone else thinks. In a way this is so: the lone wolf is often what is depicted in wolf jewelry, with its grim demeanor, quick wit, grace accentuated by speed and stealth, and the courage to find its own path through life.
Sam Serio is an Internet Marketer, musician and a writer on the subject of jewelry and gemstones. For more information on jewelry and gemstones, we cordially invite you to visit http://www.morninglightjewelry.com to pick up your FREE copy of “How To Buy Jewelry And Gemstones Without Being Ripped Off.” This concise, informative special report reveals almost everything you ever wanted to know about jewelry and gemstones, but were afraid to ask. Get your FREE report at http://www.morninglightjewelry.com.
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Posted in jewelry August 23rd, 2008
One of the things that make handmade jewelry so special is not only that it is crafted personally by its maker’s own patient hands, but also that it takes hours of careful, deliberate concentration to construct.
Every type of handmade jewelry is unique from any other jewelry piece in the world. No two pieces of handmade jewelry are ever exactly alikemaking your own personal handmade keepsake a one-of-a-kind original treasure. Since each piece of handmade jewelry is individually crafted, it is practically impossible replicate its style. Handmade jewelry is particularly fashionable because of its natural beauty. Its decorative stones, beads and metals oftentimes sport tiny imperfections, which add quality and depth to each individual piece and serve as a kind of ’seal of authenticity’ which proves that it was not merely part-and-parcel of a mass manufacturing chain.
Handmade jewelry has been prized for centuries upon centuries. The old civilizations of Mesopotamia and ancient Egypt were extremely advanced in metalworking. Their perfected techniques were passed on throughout time to the Byzantinian, Greek, Oriental and cultures. Long before there were machines fashioned to design and produce large quantities of jewelry, the artisan peoples of ancient cultures were busy hand-working gold into thin pliable sheets from which adornments could be easily sculpted. Gold is, in its purest form, flexible and soft. It is liable to bending and twisting as well, which is helpful in the hand making of fanciful gold broaches and embroidered medallions.
Embossed decoration in handmade jewelry is made by first heating the gold or other jewelry metal, and then gently hammering a pattern into the back surface of the metal. The resulting embroidery is fashionably unique. It has a one-of-a-kind motif that can never be replicated in the same style again. This innate quality of rarity and distinctivness is what sets handmade jewelry apart from all other types of jewelry on the market.
Handmade jewelry is not only crafted from common jewelry metals. Oftentimes, handmade pieces include a mix of ceramic, plaster, or wooden beads; iron, copper, and soft-metal wires; ribbons or coils; and precious gems. It is this eclectic look of eccentric styles that appeals to almost every tasteeven those of the world’s pickiest and most popular fashionistas.
Natalie Inger
Handmade Jewelry
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Posted in jewelry shop August 22nd, 2008
Celebrating a Special Occasion with Jewelry
Nothing more personal than our response to color. Color is the new language of passion, and nothing captures it better than distinctively styled jewelry.
Leave her speechless with our brilliant colorless and fancy colored diamond or bold brilliant gemstone jewelry styles.
Jewelry and gems, The Buying Guide
How to select a reputable jeweler
It’s very difficult to give advice on this matter since there are so many exceptions to any rules. Sizes and years in business are not always absolute indicators of the reliability of a firm. Some one person jewelry forms are highly respected; others are not. Some well established forms that have been in business for many years have built their trade on the highest standards of integrity and knowledge.
One point worth stressing is that for average consumer, price alone is not a reliable indicator of the integrity or knowledge of the seller. Aside from variations in quality, which often are not readily discernible by the consumer, significant price differences can also result from differences in jewelry manufacturing processes. Many jewelry manufacturers sell mass produced lines of good quality jewelry to jewelers all across the country. Mass produced jewelry, many of which are beautiful, classic designs, are usually much less expensive than handmade, one-of-a-kind pieces, or those on which there is a limited production. the work of some designers may be available in only a few select establishments, and may carry a premium because of skill, labor, reputation, and limited distribution. Handmade or one-of-a-kind pieces are always more expensive, since the initial cost of production is paid by one individual rather than shared by many, as in mass produced pieces.
Furthermore, depending upon the store, retail markups also vary, based on numerous factors unique to each retailer, including differences in insurance coverage, security costs, credit risks, education and training costs, special services such as in-house design and custom jewelry production and repair, customer service policies, and more.
The best way to select wisely is to shop around and compare the services they offer, how knowledgeable the salespeople seem, the quality of their products, and pricing for specific items. This will give a sense of what is fair. As you do so, however, remember to ask the right questions to be sure the items are truly comparable, and pay attention to design and manufacturing differences as well.
If the jeweler can’t or won’t provide the necessary information, then you go to another jewelry store, no matter how much you’ve fallen in love with the piece. And, if you are making the purchase on a contingency basis, put the terms of the contingency on the bill of sale.
Never allow yourself to be intimidated into accepting anyone’s claims. A trustworthy jeweler will have to ask for your trust; he or she will earn it through knowledge, reliability, and a willingness to give you any information you request; in writing.
Again, in general, you will be in a stronger position to differentiate between a knowledgeable, reputable jeweler and one who isn’t if you’ve shop around first. Unless you are an expert, visit several firms, ask questions, examine merchandise carefully, and then you be the judge.
A word about gemstone investment
Caution!
Caution is the only word we can apply to gem investment. If you have taken the time to read any of the articles, you should now fully understand that the world of gems is very complex, that fraud and misrepresentation can be costly, and that the average consumer lacks the knowledge and experience to make sound judgments on the purchase of expensive gems without the assistance of a qualified gemologist appraiser.
It is for this reason primarily that we (at The Jewelry Hut) recommend that gems and jewelry be purchased first and foremost for pleasure they will bring to the purchaser/wearer, or as something to be handed down to future generations. The investment consideration, while it is certainly a valid consideration, in most cases should remain secondary.
When it is published, May I request that you include my name and resource box (the bio., contact and copyright information that follows the article. I would also appreciate if you could send me an e-mail of notification along with a complimentary copy of publication.
Bijan Aziz is the owner and Web Master for The Jewelry Hut.
http://www.thejewelryhut.com
The best source for fine Diamond, gemstone, and Pearl Jewelry on the Web
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Posted in jewelry shop August 20th, 2008
Jewelry and gems, The Buying Guide
Rare and Precious:
Gold and Platinum
Gold: The timeless choice
Gold jewelry is very popular today and available in more styles, colors, and finishes than ever before. It is also a popular choice for setting gemstones. But it is very important to understand gold, and differences that affect price, in order to avoid confusion about the wide range of prices that seems to pervade the market for what may appear to be the “same thing.” As with gems, wherever there are significant price differences there are usually quality differences. The key to getting value in gold is understanding what accounts for differences in quality and price.
What is gold?
Gold is one of the world’s most precious metals. It is so soft and workable that one ounce can be stretched into a five mile long wire, or hammered into a sheet so thin that it could cover a hundred square feet. It is one of our rarest metals, and since pure gold doesn’t rust or corrode, it can last forever. Interestingly, gold is present almost everywhere around us; in the earth’s crust, in seas and rivers, and in plants, but it is very difficult and expensive to extract. Approximately two and a half to three tons of ore are needed to extract one ounce of gold.
Most gold used in jewelry is an alloy
Gold is the most popular metal used for jewelry today. The simple gold wedding band probably accounts for more of the world’s gold than any other single type of jewelry. But pure gold is very soft so it is usually mixed with other metals to make it stronger and prevent it from bending too easily. When two or more metals are mixed together, we call the resulting product an alloy. Most gold used in jewelry is an alloy; and the metals added to the gold are also called “alloys.”
What is a Karat? Or is it Carat?
In jewelry, the term carat (or, Karat) has a double meaning: carat is used as a measurement of weight for gemstones, with one carat weighing 1/5 gram; carat is also used in countries around the word to indicate the amount of pure gold in a piece of gold jewelry. In the United States, however, when using the word to indicate gold content rather gemstone weight, it is spelled with a “K;” hence “karat,” to avoid confusion. Jewelry should always be marked to indicate how much pure gold it contains.
In the united States a karat mark, abbreviated to K or KT, indicates the amount of pure gold present in the metal. The word karat (carat) is derived from the word for fruit of the carob tree: in Italian, carato; in Arabic, qirat; in Greek, keration. The seeds of the fruit were used in ancient times for weighing gems. Also, the pure gold Byzantine coin cald the solidus weighed 24 karats. therefore, a 24 karat mark (24K or 24KT) became the mark used to indicate that something was pure gold.
To understand the concept as applied to gold, imagine that, “pure gold” is a pie into 24 equal “slices” or parts. Each karat equals one part of the pie. So, 24 KT would mean that 24 parts (out of a total of 24) are gold. In other words, 24 KT would be 100% gold; or, pure gold. In the 18 karat gold jewelry, 18 parts are pure gold and six are another metal (or, 18/24 = 3/4 = 75% pure gold); in 12 karat, 12 parts are pure gold, 12 parts another metal (12/24 = 1/2 = 50% pure gold). And so on.
I some cultures, 24 karat gold jewelry is required for certain jewelry pieces, but it’s generally agreed that 24 karat, or pure gold, is too soft for jewelry use. In some parts of the world, 18 KT 0r 20 karat is preferred because of its brighter yellow color and because it is considered “purer” and more precious. In the United States, we prefer 14 or 18 karat gold because it is more durable than higher karat gold. We caution clients about the risk of high karat gold (20 KT, 22 KT, or 24 KT) for a gem-studded setting because prongs can be too easily bent open accidentally, resulting in the loss of the stones.
In some countries such as Italy, the percentage of pure gold is indicated by a number representing how many parts; out of a total of 1,000 parts, are pure gold. One thousand parts would be the equivalent or 24 karat; 750 means 750 parts of 1,000: 750/1000 = 75/100 = 75% pure gold. This corresponds to 18 KT.
A word about Russian marks
Old time pieces made in Russia were marked to indicate the content on its equivalent to a “zolotnik.” A piece marked 96 contained as much gold as 96 zolotniks, which equals pure gold; 72 equals 18 KT (750); 56 equals 14 KT (585).
To be called gold, what is the minimum gold content?
Many countries have established minimum standards that must be met for items to be legally called “gold.” The laws governing the actual content of gold required in piece of jewelry, however, vary. In the United States, to be called “gold,” the item must be at least 10 KT; in England and Canada, 9 KT; in Italy and France, 18 KT.
The many colors of gold
Pure gold is always yellow. But because pure gold is too soft for most jewelry use, and must be mixed with other metals (alloys) to increase its hardness, the color can also be modified by adding varying amounts of these other metals. Those usually added to gold for jewelry use include copper, zinc, silver, nickel, platinum, and palladium (a metal in the platinum family). Depending upon which alloys are used, a variety of colors can be produced. Another practice is to plate 14 KT gold jewelry with 18 KT for an 18 KT look, that is, a stronger yellow color. White gold is also frequently plated with rhodium, a rare and more expensive metal from the platinum family, to create a whiter, brighter finish.
Some people are allergic to nickel and should not wear white gold containing nickel. For this reason, a white gold alloyed with palladium is being used by some manufacturers. White gold that contains palladium will be more expensive than yellow gold or white gold containing another alloy. But it is still less expensive than platinum.
What causes skin discoloration with some gold jewelry?
Pure gold doesn’t tarnish and won’t discolor the skin, but alloys in the gold can corrode and produce discoloration to the skin in contact with the gold, especially under moist or damp conditions. Fats and fatty acids present in perspiration can set up a corrosive reaction, and the problem can be worse in warm, humid areas, especially where chloride (salt) is in the air.
Smog can also be a problem. Smog fumes can introduce chemicals that cause the alloys in gold to tarnish. The tarnish then rubs off, discoloring skin or clothing.
Cosmetics may be culprit.
Another common cause of discoloration is metallic abrasion caused by some makeup. Some makeup contains compounds that are actually harder than the jewelry with which it comes into contact. As the harder compounds rub against the jewelry, they cause tiny particles of metal to flake off, forming a darkish looking dust. When this dust makes contact with a soft, absorbent surface such as skin or clothing, it forms a black smudge.
There are several possible solutions to the problem of skin discoloration. First, get into the habit of removing jewelry often and cleaning the skin that has been in contact with it with soap and water. Keep your jewelry clean as well, and wipe it periodically with a soft cloth to remove tarnish. Next, try using an absorbent body powder, one free of abrasives, on all areas of your skin that are in contact with jewelry.
Pay attention to the design of jewelry you select if skin discoloration seems to be a problem; wide shanks can cause perspiration, and rings with an inner concave surface can cause moisture and contaminants to collect, causing both discoloration and dermatitis.
finally, try switching to a higher gold content or to a different manufacturer. The higher the gold content, the less likely it is that discoloration will occur because in the higher karat gold there is less of the alloy, such as copper, silver, nickel, that might corrode. People who have a problem wearing 14 KT gold jewelry may find that the problem disappears with 18 KT gold.
Sometimes simply changing to a similar product by a different manufacturer may solve the problem. This does not mean that one product is inferior to the other. Manufacturers often use different combinations of alloys, or different percentages or ratios of alloys. They may look the same, but you might find you can wear one manufacturer’s line better than that of another.
Since different metals, and different ratios, are used to produce different colors, discoloration may result when wearing one particular color or gold, but not when wearing other colors. If there seems to be a problem when wearing white gold, try white gold alloyed with platinum rather than nickel, since platinum won’t corrode.
Determining value requires more than scale!
- Weight is one factor that goes into determining the value of a piece of gold jewelry. Gold usually sold by weight, in grams or pennyweights. There are 20 pennyweights to one ounce; if you multiply grams by 0.643, you will have the number of pennyweights. Weight is important because it is an indication of the actual amount of pure gold in the piece. However, it is only one factor only to consider. When buying gold from a gold manufacturer, for example, factored into the price per gram is the cost of gold PLUS the cost for labor and workmanship. The price always takes into consideration:
1) The type of construction,
2) The means of production, and
3) How the piece is finished.
- Design and construction is important not only because of the piece’s finished look, but also because specific details in the overall design and construction affect comfort, wear-ability, and ease in putting the piece on or taking it off. Good design requires excellent designers, and extra care and attention to small mechanical details. This adds to the cost of any piece of jewelry.
In addition, jewelry design is also becoming recognized as an “art,” and jewelry designers as “artists.” some award winning designers command top dollar, as do top painters, sculptors, and other artists. A piece of gold jewelry made by a fine designer, especially if it is a one-of-kind or limited edition piece, will sometimes sell for much more than another piece of mass produced gold jewelry of the same weight and gold content.
In looking at a piece of gold jewelry, you must also consider the type of construction necessary to create a particular design or look. Is the construction simple or complex? Did the piece require extensive labor or minimal labor? Did it require special skill, talent, or equipment?
To ignore the design and construction factors and assign a value to apiece of gold jewelry based on gold content (i. e. 14 KT, 18 KT, etc.) and weight alone would be equivalent to placing a value on a painting based on the cost of paint and canvas alone.
- Production can affect price significantly. Is the piece produced by machine or by hand? The type of construction required to create a particular design may require that it be made entirely, or in part, by hand, while others can be completely made by machine. Some designs may be produced either way, but those done by hand will have a different look, and cost.
- Finish is where we take into account the care and labor costs associated with the actual finishing of the piece. For example, are there any special skills or techniques required to put on the final touches that make the piece distinctive, such as engraving, milgraining, hammering, or granulation? here we also need to note whether or not the piece has been carefully polished to remove any scratches that might diminish its beauty, or rough edges that might be abrasive or catch or snag on fabric. Consider whether the item was hand polished or machine polished; some pieces are machine made, but finished by hand. We must also take into consideration any special finishes to the metal itself, such as a florentine, matte, or sand blasted finish. Each step in the process, and each special step or skill required, adds; sometimes dramatically, to the cost.
Adding it all up
Many pieces of gold jewelry look alike at first glance. When examined carefully, however, if often becomes clear where the difference lie, both in quality and cost. Ask your jeweler to help you understand these differences by comparing different qualities for you. Only after carefully evaluating all these factors can you appreciate gold jewelry and recognize cost differences and real value.
Is that “Bargain” really a bargain?
Beware of underkarating, which is a serious problem around the world. If a piece of gold jewelry is underkarated, it means that the jewelry is marked to indicate a certain gold content, but actually contains less than is indicated. Needless to say, retailers who knowingly sell underkarated gold jewelry create the impression that they are giving you a bargain because their prices are so low, but if there is actually less gold ( and more alloy, so the piece would have a comparable weight to the others you might be considering), you aren’t getting any bargain. Unfortunately, most people never learn that they have bought underkarated gold. Thus, it is very important to buy gold jewelry from a reputable source, one that makes the effort to check its gold shipments carefully.
Look for a manufacturer’s registered trademark. Being sure gold is properly represented in terms of its value is what really matters; you should get what you pay for. Buying from a reliable source is the first step. In addition, be sure to look for a manufacturer’s registered trademark, a mark stamped near the karat mark. To avoid being held liable themselves, more and more jewelers are buying only from manufacturers willing to stamp what they make with their own mark, a mark registered with the U. S. Patent and Trademark Office. Buying gold with a “manufacturer’s trademark” is one way to help assure you get what you pay for, since the product can be traced to a specific manufacturer, whose name and reputation are on the line.
Fine, expensive gold jewelry should always be tested. While testing for exact gold content requires assaying, it is usually relatively easy to detect any underkarating that is serius enough to affect the value of a specific piece of jewelry and the price paid. Any jeweler or gemologist appraiser can make such determination, in most cases, quickly and easily with only a gold tester or by using the streak test. You should be aware that an electronic gold tester, some very heavily plated pieces might give a false reading indicating gold when the piece is only base metal. For this reason the streak test is better but the person doing the test must be sure to take a file or carbide scriber and make a very deep scratch in order to penetrate the plating for an accurate test.
There are strict laws pertaining to gold content and marks used to indicate it. Take the time to understand what you are buying, buy only from a reputable source, and be sure to have it tested. If you do, your gold jewelry will give you a lifetime of pleasure.
Platinum: cool, classic, and contemporary
Platinum, which has been used in jewelry since the turn of the century, became especially popular during the Edwardian period because its malleable character made it a natural for the intricate and lacy work style of the day.
Platinum is frequently used in finest jewelry and to set the most valuable gems because it’s more “workable” and easier to move the prongs or setting around the stone, thereby reducing the risk of accidentally damaging it. Long a favorite for classic looks and for the finest diamond settings, platinum is now evolving as the metal of choice for design trends; sleek, bold, contemporary looks for brooches, necklaces, chains, and earrings. Sometimes platinum is alloyed with another metal to create an interesting color, or used alongside gold to create an innovative look.
Nothing is purer than platinum
Platinum is even more rare and valuable than gold. The platinum family is composed of six elements; platinum, palladium, iridium, osmium, rhodium, and ruthenium. These six silvery white metals are generally found together in nature, with platinum and palladium the most abundant, and osmium, rhodium, and ruthenium the rarest.
Platinum is rarest and heavier than other precious metals and as the purest, it’s sometimes referred to as the “noblest.” Most platinum jewelry also contains small amounts of the rarer and more expensive elements iridium or ruthenium for added strength.
Because platinum is so pure, it rarely causes allergic reactions. This is greatly appreciated by those sensitive people who experience reactions to or skin discoloration from jewelry containing base metals. In addition, platinum is somewhat stronger than other precious metals.
Platinum is identified by karat marks. In the United States, the abbreviations PT or plat indicate platinum. In Europe the numerical marks 950 or PT950 indicate platinum. The finest jewelry often uses platinum mixed with 10% iridium or ruthenium for added strength. This cost more since these are rarer and costlier metals.
Rhodium plating
Rhodium, another member of platinum family, is the brightest and most reflective of all the platinum metals. Rhodium is also harder and whiter than platinum and, because it is so durable, doesn’t wear off quickly, as does gold plating. A a result, it is often used to coat gold and platinum jewelry.
Rhodium plating should be considered especially for people who have allergic reactions to 10 KT or 14 KT gold, since it can help eliminate reaction to the alloys.
Yellow gold, white gold, or platinum: Which one?
To decide whether or not you want yellow gold, white gold, or platinum, you must first decide which color metal you prefer. This selection usually depends on personal preference, skin tone, and the color of other jewelry you may own. If your choice is yellow gold, keep in mind that it is available in several different shades, including a pure yellow, a pinkish yellow, and greenish yellow.
If you decide yellow is the color you want, then you must decide whether to get 14 Karat or 18 Karat. Certainly, 14 KT is more affordable than 18 KT; it is also harder. But the yellow won’t be as bright. If you refer a brighter yellow, we recommend that you ask your jeweler for a 14 KT gold with an 18 KT finish, that is, an 18 KT coating over the 14 KT. After several years the finish may wear off, but it can be re-plated foe a minimal charge.
If you prefer a white metal, your choice may be more difficult. Even though white gold and platinum may be similar in appearance, they are very different metals. As we mentioned, platinum is much more expensive, so if you’re on a limited budget, white gold may be the sensible choice. White gold is very hard and very resistant to scratching but exhibit a brownish or yellowish cast which must be covered by rhodium plating. As we mentioned, this plating will eventually wear off, although it can easily be re-plated.
One significant disadvantage of white gold is that it is more brittle than platinum or yellow gold. So if you decide on white gold, be sure to have your jeweler check the setting; especially prongs, at least once a year.
Platinum is somewhat softer and more malleable than white gold, making it an ideal choice for very intricate settings that require intensive labor. It is much easier to use platinum for pave work, that is, designs in which the stones are set as closely together as possible, With platinum, the jeweler can also make a safer setting because a larger prong can be used, since platinum conforms so easily to the shape of the stone, reducing risk of damage. Over time, platinum also holds up better than gold
One disadvantage of platinum is that many jewelers do not have proper equipment to work with it. This, combined with platinum’s cost, results in more limited variety of styles from which to choose. If you like basic classic design, you shouldn’t have a problem finding a setting you like. But if you need custom work to get the look you want, it can add substantially to the cost of the finished piece.
In final analysis, it is up to the individual to weight the relative advantage and disadvantage of gold or platinum. Whichever precious metal you select, there are many beautiful styles and designs from which to choose.
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Bijan Aziz is the owner and Web Master for The Jewelry Hut.
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Posted in silver jewelry August 19th, 2008
Either you are buying it as a gift or for yourself, there are many reasons why titanium jewelry can be a better choice than jewelry made in traditional precious metals like gold, silver and platinum.
Firstly, titanium is highly corrosion resistant and therefore does not tarnish easily. Especially for high-polish finished jewelry like gold and silver wedding band rings, it is expected that the jewelry will lose its color and shine over time. Even if they are stored properly in jewelry boxes or safe, the oxygen in the air reacts with the metals and turns the color. This process is of course accelerated if the jewelry is worn daily because the sweat combined with body temperature, acts as catalysts to the chemical process.
Also, titanium is hypoallergenic, which means that very few people have skin that is sensitive to it. People who are allergic to gold, silver or, more commonly, nickel, which is found in most gold and silver jewelry, don’t have to worry about outbreak when wearing jewelry made from titanium and its alloys.
A widely known property about titanium is its durability. It is this attribute that makes it perfect for active individuals who frequently engage in outdoor activities, even water sports. It is not uncommon that people find their gold or silver jewelry damaged, or even lost, after a day of exciting outdoor events. These disappointments can easily be avoided if titanium jewelry is worn instead. In addition, titanium has a high strength to weight ratio. In other words, although it is much stronger than gold and silver jewelry, even steel, it is much lighter and hence more comfortable to wear.
Finally, it is fashionable and trendy to wear titanium jewelry. The metal is relatively new in the fashion industry with many new ideas being applied on it. Titanium is so versatile that it not only can be combined with gemstones, gold and silver, engraved and finished like traditional jewelry; it can also be anodized to create eye-catching colored titanium jewelry.
Common titanium jewelry includes wedding band ring, men’s titanium rings and men’s titanium bracelets. There is every reason to explore the vast possibilities and express your personality in a whole different way.
Scott Murff got his MBA from MIT business school and currently is the marketing manager in Titanium Kay that specializes in men’s titanium wedding rings and tungsten rings.
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